PRO-FIX Rapid Cure shaft bonding adhesive, the first 10-minute adhesive with the strength, toughness, and impact resistance of a 24-hour curing product. The 3-minute work life allows time for 1 club to be bonded per mix. Full cure in 10 minutes at 72°F/22°C that will withstand 120 mph swing speeds. (Allow longer time for colder temperatures). PRO-FIX Rapid Cure gives you the technology to make high quality, rapid bonds and get customers back on the course.
CREATING BETTER BONDS
Brampton's PRO-FIX 5&10 golf shaft bonding adhesive, the first 5-minute adhesive with the strength, toughness, and impact resistance of a 24-hour curing product.
- Superior structural bond strength on all golf shaft and head materials.
- Easy cleanup.
- 100% cure in 10-20 minutes.
- Very easy to use.
- Double-barreled cartridge dispenses an exact 1:1 mix.
- 1.7 oz. / 50 ml requires an epoxy dispensing gun.
How much golf club epoxy should I use?
Getting “just the right amount” of golf club epoxy on the shaft tip and coating the inside of the hosel of the golf club is a delicate – and critical – part of golf club assembly. Beginning clubmakers generally tend to use too much golf epoxy to start, but learn to cut back after a few messy clean-up jobs.
It is important to understand that using too much golf shaft epoxy can do more harm than just creating a mess. Remember the saying “too much of a good thing is actually a bad thing”? Over-application of epoxy can result in swingweight problems and has a tendency to break loose and causes shaft rattles over time as the club is played. With composite assembly, the over-application of epoxy is the leading cause of shaft breakage as excess epoxy goes up inside the shaft tip to form a solid plug of epoxy. When cured, an epoxy core extending above the top of the hosel can create a shear point within the shaft leading to premature failure – a potentially dangerous situation! Make a practice of using the proper amount of epoxy.
How should I apply the golf club epoxy?
The key is to use a LIGHT COAT. If you use a 1/4″ dowel, mixing stick, nail, or similar object to mix the epoxy, smear the epoxy separately on the shaft tip and to the inside of the hosel. For increased speed, some clubmakers will dip a small portion of the shaft tip in the epoxy and then insert the shaft into the hosel. In either case, insert the epoxy coated shaft slowly into the hosel with a rotating motion while going in an up and down motion to ensure complete coverage around the total circumferences of the two components.
In some cases you may hear “pop” coming from the butt end of the shaft. Don’t be alarmed. This is actually a good sign meaning that the air has completely escaped from the hosel due to the hydraulic pressure of the epoxy.
If you used the right amount of epoxy you should have little mess to clean up around the exterior base of the ferrule and hosel. In addition you will ensure that excess shafting epoxy does not work its way up inside the shaft tip (especially on graphite shafts) and prevent potential breakage.
Do I Need to Use Shafting Beads?
Glass shafting beads are not a neccessity in all epoxy applications. What they do is helps align, center, and cushion a golf shaft. First test fit the shaft into the hosel. If it is already snug, then there is no reason to use shafting beads. However, if you have a loose fitting shaft, then shafting beads are extremely helpful in not only centering the shaft, but also potentially preventing breakage. Set aside some of your mixed epoxy and add approximately 4-6% by volume. Then apply the epoxy as normal to the shaft and interior of the hosel.
| Model # | Weight | UPC |
| BRP01 | 110000000105 | |
| BRP10 | 853235006411 |
